research

Internship journal

On my internship with Denzel we started off by looking at his designs and his inspiration and then we looked at his line up so I could gather an idea of what he was doing so that I shared the same vision as he did on his project. We were very quick to start as he is working under deadlines and has to time manage his sessions in the studio with lots of precision. I could really feel the pressure but he did seem to have things slightly in control. On the first day we worked on some of the patterns that he needed to correct so that things lined up. I wore some of his toiles whilst he fitted the garments on me as he said I was a similar height to the model he is using for the fashion show. Once we had lined up his patterns he told me to cut out some of the patterns for his looks whilst he went into the other studio to do something for the rest of the day. On the second day I was still pattern cutting his pieces as he had another helper doing sewing for him. I really have learnt that being organised is so important, Denzel keeps all his patterns for each look in envelopes in a folder which means that he cannot lose them. When we finally had the patterns right we made turtle necks as each of Denzel’s looks has a turtleneck as a base and we worked on a pocket for his toiles. I was mainly steaming fabric on these days as I could feel the pressure and wasn’t confident enough to sew for his finally collection. after this we then started cutting out of the fabric using the patterns we had made for the different looks. Denzels fabric is very expensive so we took some time to make sure we wasted as little as possible just incase something goes wrong and we have spare fabric as some where fourty-five pound per metre. Denzel taught me that when cutting out of fabric don’t cut on the fold as I almost did to his fabric before he luckily stopped me as you need to make sure, that if you need a pair then cut out a pair of the same pattern piece first in paper before going onto the fabric. We cut out Panels for the trousers in Denzel’s looks so we needed to make sure that they matched up so following the grain line down to the millimetre was key. Denzel’s choice of fabric also changed in colour and pattern from one selvedge edge to the other selvedge edge so it was really crucial that we matched every panel up together symmetrically if it was a pair that we needed to cut out. I have definitely learnt the importance of pattern cutting as a fundamental part of creating garments in my internship so far and look forward to continuing my learning after the easter break. Paige said that she also agrees with me on this as she was cutting out small details that were to be sewn on her third year students garment and had to make sure every single one was identical to the next. The Sewing was very difficult and Denzel was under alot of stress which also stressed me out, I could feel the pressure of the show getting closer. But its better to take things slow so that you dont mess it up rather than rush and ruin things! Here are some images from the show.

When I found out who was in the press show, I started to come into the studios to help Jak. we first started by looking at his designs.

 

After this we looked through his samples but we needed to go out and get some more the next day.

We started to go through his toiles and he likes to work alot with panels, we spoke about his influences as we have similar parents and he likes spaces and architecture the same as me which is probably why his work is dominated with panels and shapes, spaces withing a garments sillhoutte. I tried on his toiles whilst he marked on where pockets are going to be and where all the panels are going to be.

The next day whilst he did someother work in the studio I labelled all the panels in each toile front and back ready to cut out. I will put an example below.

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The next day we cut out a master for some of the other garments for the press show. Jak likes to make master patterns on one piece of paper which I thought was a good idea and also utilises his phone by videoing some of his process which I might use in the future.IMG_1507

After that we made some more patterns and started to cut the patterns out in more toile fabric to make sure Jaks designs work before we make the real thing and that is all we have got up to so far.

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